To Hat or not to Hat?

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That is the question that has been causing a certain amount of debate in wedding circles as the date of our wedding in June hoves ever nearer. To wear or not to wear? And, if to wear, how to find a hat that suits? In an effort to be helpful, but probably to complicate the buying process still further, I’ve dug out my copy of Dressing Smartly, by Mildred Graves Ryan, a sage tome of sartorial wisdom published in 1956, when a lady wasn’t considered properly dressed without a hat and gloves. Ms. Ryan appears very keen on hats herself: the photo of her on the book’s jacket show her sporting a trim number, and she devotes a whole chapter to Becoming Hats:

Not only does a hat put the finishing touch to a smart outfit, but it also serves as a lovely frame for the face, adding a flattering touch to the facial features. However, it is sometimes difficult to find the hat that seems exactly right for the outfit and becoming to you. But don’t buy one unless it is. With the great variety in style, size and shape there has to be one that is perfect. Keep trying. If the choice gets confusing, stop. Wait until you can analyze the situation objectively. Sometimes it is the way that you place the hat on your head that is unattractive. Shift the position until it is comfortable and flattering to wear.

Here are Ms. Ryan’s cardinal rules for hat selection, based upon principles of proportion:
“The problem of selecting a hat is also complicated by the fact that it must be considered in relation to the figure as well as the face. A hat is often most becoming to the face but gives a very distorted illusion to the figure. You know what happends when a large hat is worn by a tiny person.

It is also well to consider the profile when selecting a hat. It is important that the side view should be pleasing.

To add length to the face and figure, wear hats with brims that turn upward. Feathers or decoration with an upswept air will keep the eye moving in a vertical direction. Hats worn with a slight diagonal tilt will have a slenderizing and flattering effect.

To shorten the face and figure, wear hats with drooping brims. Sometimes hats in bright contrasting colours or with horizontally placed decoration will stop the eye, decreasing the apparent height of the figure.

Hats worn straight on the head are often difficult to wear. They produce a straight line across the forehead which shortens and broadens the face.

Care must be taken in choosing a close-fitting hat. If the crown is smaller that the widest part of the face the features will seem more prominent. If the crown is too large, a top-heavy, grotesque look is achieved. It is very important that good proportion exists between the hat, the face and the figure.

It is also important that the rules of repetition and contrast be remembered. An off-the-face hat above a tired sagging face will of course emphasize the drooping lines. A feather jutting out above a prominent nose will accentuate the feature. A pill box hat worn by a round face will increase the apparent rotundity of the face.”

What a lot to think about- no wonder the humble hat has fallen out of favour…

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Tags: 1950s fashion, hats, weddings