Skirting the issue

Every year I try to make myself something reasonably presentable to wear at Christmas. This is the skirt I made myself to wear on Christmas day, which I was still frantically hemming on Christmas morning. (I’m wearing it with the beaded moth sweater I salvaged.)

The basic pattern used was Butterick 4749, which is a great wardrobe builder pattern comprising a jacket, skirt and pants:

It’s an easy pattern to overlook, as it’s not particularly trendsetting and the illustration on the packet doesn’t really sell it (in fact the model on the left bears more than a passing resemblance to Andy Pandy in shades). It’s just been made “out of print” but you can still buy it from Butterick by clicking the pic. I’ve actually made the jacket and pants of this pattern now (although no reviews yet) and what makes them work for me is that they actually seem designed to fit and flatter the average human body with a waist and hips rather than simply look cool.

Pattern Description:
“Misses’ Skirt is 2 inches below mid-knee length with side pleats and side zipper.”

Pattern Sizing:
8,10,12,14. I made a 14 to give myself room to adjust and take in at the side seams. In the end I decided I quite liked the skirt sitting slightly below the waist so I didn’t take anything in but let it rest on the top of my hips.

Fabric:
I used a lovely Vera Wang asian-inspired silk twill from Emma Onesock:

The fabrics recommended on the pattern are of the cotton twill/ broadcloth variety. I intentionally picked a fabric that wouldn’t really hold a crease, as I wanted the skirt to have a bit of softness rather holding rigid creases. I also used the WRONG SIDE of the fabric because I preferred it (the small circles are all outlined in white on the other side). I lined the skirt (although the pattern does not instruct you to) in a very dark navy swiss batiste from Farmhouse fabrics.

Design changes:
I added an extra couple of inches onto the hem before cutting out the pieces.

I also lined the skirt by sewing the side seams separately on the lining and skirt fabric up to the zipper point, french seaming them, and then simply machine basting the lining and skirt together at the waist before pleating the two layers as one.

It was after I’d done all that that I decided I wanted to use an invisible zipper rather than a normal one for a smooth line down the side of the skirt. I hadn’t really thought the project through and having already sewn and French seamed the seam where the zipper was going to go, I couldn’t face unpicking. So I ended up putting the zipper in by hand with much swearing and cursing.

I also didn’t want a waistband. Is it just me or is fashion moving away from waistbands? So I left it off and made some bias binding out of the same fabric, and simply cut 5/8 inch off the top of the skirt to rid of the seam allowance the pattern allows for the waistband and applied the binding.

Here is another closeup of the finished skirt:

Note: You can also read a version of this review at Sewing Pattern Review online where I go under the sobriquet of planchet (although if you are not logged in as a member you may have trouble accessing reviews over six months old). Sewing pattern review is absolutely indispensable when choosing a commercial pattern to buy as you can read the wisdom and experiences of those who trod the path of that pattern before you.